Pipe organs were far too expensive even for most churches so the pump organ was the organ of choice. A tiny punch-mark works, too. Put two bearings on each wire and push the legs into their respective holes. This *can* get tricky, and there's a lot to explain. No mention of screwing is complete without a brief mention of lubrication. (Prop it up on chunks of wood if there are too many things protruding below). Then stack the two covers, weight them down well, and leave them overnight. Rip this felt out, and remove all traces of it with sparing applications of hot water, being careful not to let the water soak into the reed cells. Heating destroys enough wood fibers to release the screw, leaving a hole that will still receive the same size screw successfully. The glue is not set, and is a good lubricant, so it's easy to make this mistake! Failing to "size" the end of the stick will allow the dots to fall off easily, spoiling your work. These are tricky enough, though the type consisting of hinged ribs and gussets is trickier! The last step is a wipe with a clean cloth *barely* dampened with WD40, to retard future rust. Reed Organ Society PO Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047 USA . The organ may just need a good cleaning and a few adjustments. (See Note 3). There is little point in trying to make them look "new", however, since they *aren't* new. Best, here, is a *very* thin and *very* sharp skiver's knife, but a single-edge razor blade (changed often) does well. You will need a good hard surface to work upon: a sheet of glass is good, as ammonia will not damage it. With a sharp tool, each of these is bent up to point more-or-less straight up. Finally, view the reed against a strong light to be sure there are no specks lurking anywhere in the small space between tongue and frame. The person or persons contemplating repairing or rebuilding their reed organ should have the following attributes: Working on a reed organ need not be a lonely job: a few compatible souls can get the job done faster, at least, and the companionship and pride in a job well done can then be shared. The pump organ is a type of free-reed organ that generates sound as air flows past a vibrating piece of thin metal in a frame. But most often it has to be replaced. cannot comment on their effectiveness. Of "variants" there is not much to be said. Previous issues of the ROS Quarterly are currently available by this special offer - they are free! The Aunt Maude Series updated and illustrated on CD. Lastly, "close" the reservoir where the ends of the cloth fold over, using your notes to guide you on how it was done originally. Now put a scrap of masking tape on the face of the reservoir, next to its bottom edge, and mark the exact center of the reservoir's bottom. An iron, not too hot, will usually soften the glue enough to let you remove one exhauster cover as a single piece. Applying the outside springs and any small wooden guides for them will complete the covering of the reservoir. Nowadays, there is a plethora of new kinds, most of them used for joining very specific materials, and often using special tools; of these there will be no discussion here. Get this matter settled first. Built in 1868 and enlarged in 1886, it is one of the city's few surviving Second Empire factory buildings. [How does this fool thing work, anyway? Apply a "wipe or two" of bees-wax just before re-driving the screws. Any twist or irregularity must be sanded out, and the active surface re-sized. You will be cleaning up the key-board next, a matter with which I will treat in part 13. The soundboard was usually shellacked, and the cleaning treatment may leave it a bit dingy. Throw-aways are fine, and some artist's brushes in several small configurations will get you started. Soundboard is cleaned and clear coated. The fabric serves to ease movement and prevent rattle. If there are metal frames, these should be cleaned up with a wire brush; if they were painted, re-paint them to match the original as closely as you can.  In very bad cases, you may have to re-bush the entire keyboard. Vacuum this dirt off, and look for pencil notations by others who've been ahead of you. punch or a leather punch: the dot should be as close to the sticker's diameter as you can get. The 2019 International Reed Organ Society's gathering was held at our musseum last year. [Ye Gods: there's 61 (see note) of all those little thingies! Usually 61 in number (five octaves); occasionally 73 (six octaves). It is now time to turn our attention to the keyboard, one of the most important elements in a good reed organ repair. FRONT PIN: The pin under the business-end of each key which serves to prevent side-ways motion of the key. Working carefully and methodically, it should take no more than a few hours to re-face an entire set of typical reed organ valves. Leather can be had from many sources. Anything you plan to do to the organ's case should be undertaken next. J Busilacchio Reed Organ. Then place the reed on the glass plate over the pot of water held *just* at boiling. But, to do its job effectively, a screw requires a certain size of. You *should* use hot glue, but liquid hide glue also works here. I usually remove the valves first, numbering them as I go. It's time, too, to replace the silks behind any fretwork on the case or key-slip. As you disassemble the thing, you will likely ask yourself (as I do, often!) Remove the old material, which invariably was glued on with hot glue. That formative is important. Reed Organ Collection. Sand both sides, and top and bottom with 200-grit garnet paper in a rubber holder. Steps 1 through 4 should be done before continuing with: 5. With the casework out of the way, you'll find some sort of linkages (wooden sticks, wires, or straps) that ultimately connect the stop-knobs to the mutes: these parts are usually at the extreme end of the action, (they may, however be arranged along the back of the stop action) and are made to be disconnected fairly easily. As each sticker is completed, it is dropped into its respective hole. Document these on paper, and preserve them if you can. A macho approach here can drive the pins right through the soundboard, which is a "bad thing" [tm]. Each piece is 1/2-inch long by a width equal to that of the bearing, "plus a little": this is really not all that critical, and these parts can be quickly cut out using a razor-blade in a handle. There is usually a seal strip over the hinge, though this *may* go on *after* the exhausters are covered: again, your notes will tell you how to proceed. 6-octave keyboard, 14 stops (10 speaking) in a heavy golden oak console. Columbia Organ Leathers has good supplies, but you have to buy whole skins. WARNING - once you complete your first restoration it will probably not be your last... Should restoring be a daunting task or you just don't have the time, Contact the ROS councilor in your area to help find members who are qualified restoration experts. COUPLER BUTTON: A wooden button attached beneath the key which transfers motion to the coupler wire. Vinegar *alone*, however, has been reported by some as effective. Log in A weight on the cover helps hold things. To make new card-board ribs, use the old ones as templates. An alternative is to have a nice heavy *straight* piece of wood to place across the tails, just in front of the balance pins: using this, you don't have to put the retainer on until you are all done. Twill works best, though). It is a practical guide for craftsmen with instructions for making new reed organs and chapters included on tuning and voicing. Now and then one finds nails, especially in casework, but in the actions, a bewildering array of screws of many sizes can be found. Clean up all other surfaces of the mutes with fine sand-paper or 0000 steel wool. Turn the reed over, and give a swipe or two to the underside of the tongue. Measure the length of a typical member of each group, and note by number how many valves have that length, and jot down a little table, which might look something like this: Notes Length, inches (cm, micropalmas, or whatever) 1-13 3.25 14-25 2.875 26-40 2.5 41-61 2.25. Put a *thin* layer of hot glue on the mute face, and place it carefully on its leather strip, leaving an excess all around. A particular challenge in this regard is the coupler mechanism (assuming your organ has one). With all these chores behind you, re-facing the valves (if necessary) is the next step, to be. Work this joint down well, and apply any wood strips that may have been over the cloth. But if you need a *row* of tacks, you're doing something wrong! The Aeolian Grand Player Reed Organ was the first keyboard-type player reed organ to be sold in quantity. Make a similar mark somehow to guide you on the divider board. 6. You have come a long way since then! In removing whatever you find, look for shards of the original still glued underneath - this will tell you what color the original material was). Now is the time to go through and do that. Even then, it is not a bad idea to keep the keys in order when you set them aside: there's really no reason not to. Following the second rinse. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". As with the rest of the instrument's various bits and pieces, the first step is to assure that the keys are numbered in order. In some instances, there is a single row of front-pins which protrude up through the thumper felt. With key drop and level adjusted to your satisfaction, get back from the keyboard a little ways, get your eyes down to the same level, and observe the key fronts: some keys may appear to tilt one way or another. Once you have the knack of hot glue, you will wonder how you ever got along without it. Then let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best). You may find a key or two where slivers of wood have been driven in sideways, to make the key a trifle thicker at the critical point: I don't recommend this, as it's too easy to split old fragile wood this way. When the glue has set and these valves are sliced apart, you will have the job half done. Conklin Reed Organ & History Museum: Reed Organs - See 3 traveler reviews, 4 candid photos, and great deals for Hanover, MI, at Tripadvisor. Whatever you use, be sure joints between pieces of material are almost invisible: an amazing amount of wind can leak through a tiny imperfection in this gasket! The slicing is obviously critical, and you need a steady hand, one of which holds adjacent valves tightly together, and the other of which makes the slice. If this is the case, you must remove the strip along the back of the keyboard which retains the keys, and lift out one or two to access that pesky middle screw. While many claim that "size isn't important", size IS important when using hot glue. The blade must be held perpendicular to the work, and care must be taken not to slice the valve itself. Screws are driven in place (and removed) through use of a screw-driver. A decent alternative is a small electric hotplate with a thermostat, a pan of water, a jar immersed in the water for the glue, and a simple meat thermometer. Note: Some mutes are held in place by leather and/or cloth hinges, often assisted by a small strip of tin and a couple of tiny nails. Next, remove the stickers, a neat row of which you see protruding up through the swell action. pick up in person cash on pick only. There's more about screws in Part 11. It was very successful, with attendees from as far away as Europe and Japan. Similarly, resist the temptation to use neoprene foam. All this work is quite straightforward, just a matter of cleaning, replacing any worn or missing felt, and re-hinging: then re-assembling. If they are some other wood that has been stained black, steel wool work OK too, as it's likely you will want to re-stain. Pipe Organ Database a project of the organ historical society. The company's filing status is listed as Active and its File Number is 802074. Make some sketches of how the ends were done. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. Pipe Organ Database a project of the organ historical society. Avoid swapping the exhausters left for right - mark *everything* unobtrusively: letter punches, discrete pencil marks, whatever works for you. All of the above must be done twice, of course. What is the abbreviation for Reed Organ Society? The Registered Agent on file for this company is Reed Organ Society, Inc. and is located at Charles Robinson, Treasurer Po Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047. very little glue, as you can see by tearing apart an old valve. [Can't figure this out myself - guess I need to consult someone.]. â¦ The fifth deadly sin is that of over-tightening. ), Raising the keys is a bit trickier, and there are several ways to do it. Pyralin is (or at least once was) white, and there the resemblance to ivory ends. With the cloth all out of the way, use hot water on a rag to remove excess glue wherever you find it. Make a note of that length, and how far each facing is from one end of the wooden valve. Most RO actions are built up from the bottom, so one works from the top down. It is wise to take the time, since removing a broken-off screw is usually impossible. Worse yet, some fail to pilot at all! NUMBERING: The keys on many reed organ keyboards have numbers stamped into them, usually near the tail. the exhausters likewise. Drop the keys onto their frame in order, and secure with the catch rail (just a few screws for now). Buffing on a wire-wheel is advised, especially if they are rusty. Attention is now turned to the "stickers", which were removed long ago and which have been kept in order. Metal-etch cleaners based on phosphoric acid are useful here, followed by polishing with steel wool. The frame can now be cleaned and felts replaced. "Brownskin", as used for pouches in pipe organs, works well, too, but use the "thick" weight. 1.1K likes. There may be a guide strip to be cleaned up first. (Don't laugh - even I have made this mistake). When it cool again, work the leaves and blow the loosened dirt and rust out with the air hose. It is important to pull them out *straight* - no wiggling from side to side, as this tends to break cell walls. If you are lucky, the foundation is NOT glued to the lower action: if you are UNlucky, it is, and you need to seek advice on how to get it apart. Some reservoirs have external springs: remove these, taking care to mark them so you can get them back exactly as they were. It may be necessary to lay the organ case on its back to access the treadle straps; the springs are usually reached through a removable knee-panel. If enough glue was put on, some will squeeze out from beneath the cloth as you work it into place: remove this with a rag dampened in hot water. Fossicking amongst this accumulata may tell much about the organ's history. If the reservoir has internal springs, some care is needed. Pump Organ Restorations specializes in the restoration of all makes and models of Antique Reed Organs, Pump Organs and Melodeon Organs. Finally, remove the mutes, which are usually held in place with small metal hinges. Next, clean up the bed and re-hinge it if necessary (it usually is! A round-head screw, on the other hand, bears on the material directly, and the head remains well above the joined surface. If your organ is the type with mutes which are easily removed (metal hinges), you set the mutes aside earlier. The Conklin Reed Organ Museum proudly displays 99 restored and working antique reed organs in the former school's gymnasium. Note especially which strips of rubber-cloth overlap which others: this will give you a clue as to the order these parts were wrapped in. You'll have all 61 notes down on their felts in no time. The objective is to make the spaces *between* the key fronts as uniform as possible in appearance. appropriate way and sequence to produce - one hopes! This should be quite easy: if it isn't, increase the strength of the ammonia a bit. Large dollops of verdigris resulting from droplets of mouse urine may require a touch with a *dry* pencil-eraser, but a very slight discoloration left behind will do no harm, and it is best to go as easily as you can, especially on the tongues themselves. Stubborn stains (usually mouse-pee) may require some 0000 steel wool. At this juncture you can shift it a trifle one way or another to avoid wrinkles. The glue should, for this purpose, be on the thick side. Every screw has three basic parts: the head, the shank, and the threads. Details of how it's held in vary, but by now you should be adept at finding screws in odd places! Trim the excess leather from the dry mutes by placing each one on a smooth surface and trimming with a razor-blade, using the wood as a guide. I usually apply new straps at this point, as it's easier to do with the lower action out of the case. If so, the fabric has to be replaced. Seal the slot or holes in the foundation with masking tape, and seal the hole in the back of the reservoir where the dumping valve goes (or re-face and re-attach the valve itself). The ribs fold on the length-wise center-line; the middle ribs are centered with respect to the marks for the ends of the movable board, and the side ribs are placed using the old ones as a guide. This data taken, the next step is to strip the old facings from the valves; keep one or two as guides for the glue pattern, and throw the rest away. Go for a weight (thickness) as nearly that of the original as possible, erring on the thicker side if necessary. 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